{"id":9286,"date":"2026-08-10T09:34:05","date_gmt":"2026-08-10T09:34:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/majistraleczacilari.org.tr\/?post_type=docs&p=1862"},"modified":"2026-08-21T11:50:10","modified_gmt":"2026-08-21T11:50:10","password":"","slug":"who-invented-cold-cream","status":"publish","type":"docs","link":"https:\/\/majistraleczacilari.org.tr\/en\/dokumanlar\/general-articles\/who-invented-cold-cream\/","title":{"rendered":"Who Invented Cold Cream?"},"content":{"rendered":"
Who Invented the Cold Cream Formula!<\/strong><\/div>\n
\n

Cold cream, known in the literature as Unguentum leniens, is an emulsion of water and certain fats, usually including beeswax and various fragrance agents, designed to smooth the skin and remove makeup. The name \u201ccold cream\u201d derives from the cooling sensation the cream leaves on the skin. Variations of this product have been in use for approximately 2,000 years.<\/p>\n

The fact that it is known by many different names and possesses various formulations can be explained by the long history of this cream, which dates back to the 2nd century AD. The original recipe was developed by Galen of Pergamon (Galenus)<\/strong>, a respected physician, pharmacist, and natural scientist of that era whose ideas remained influential until the Renaissance. It appears that Galen invented cold cream and published it in his surviving works. A common feature of the cream and most of its variants is that they are lipophilic creams capable of absorbing up to 30% water without an emulsifier. And these simple formulations continue to be utilized as indispensable base creams in pharmacies today.<\/p>\n

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As a medical doctor, pharmacist, scientist, and philosopher, Galen of Pergamon was one of the most prominent physicians of Ancient Rome. Considered the founder of experimental physiology and the world’s first sports physician, he was honored with titles such as the Emperor of Physicians and Shaykh al-Sayadilah (Master of Pharmacists). He is believed to have been born in 129 AD. His birthplace is the city of Pergamon (modern-day Bergama), located within the borders of present-day Turkey. His father was Aelius Nicon, an architect, mathematician, and senator. He received his early education from his father. His father Nicon, who taught him geometry and arithmetic, also guided him to study logic and medicine. According to legend, his father saw Asclepius, the god of medicine, in a dream and received the command to make his son a physician.<\/p>\n

Galen of Pergamon (anglicized as Aelius Galenus, Claudius Galenus, or Galen), a 2nd-century Roman physician and philosopher, traveled around the Mediterranean drawing upon the earlier medical knowledge of Hippocrates, studied and practiced medicine, and authored medical treatises. Galenus, whose works served as prime references for classical medicine, passed down knowledge of contemporary hygiene and herbal beauty practices to the present day in his medical writings. The 2nd-century cold cream recipe is still in use today. The mentioned recipe can be found in Galen’s On Hygiene (De sanitate tuenda), the Life and Times of Ambroise Par\u00e9 (1510\u20131590), and Culpeper\u2019s 16th-century Herbal. Cold cream was used by the Greco-Romans, Arab-Sicilians, medieval Italians, and Renaissance peoples of Western Europe.<\/p>\n

In the formula described by Galen, the rose water produces a cooling effect on the skin as it evaporates. For this reason, it is known as “cold cream.” The ratio between oil, wax, and water determines the consistency of the cream. It is specified that more beeswax should be used for a firmer cream, while more oil is recommended for a softer, more fluid cream.<\/p>\n

Cold cream is a very simple emulsion of water, oil, and wax. The emulsifiers holding the cream together are fatty acids that form a soap base when neutralized, and this soap composition is used to remove makeup, cleanse the skin, and soothe inflammation. Oil and beeswax act as skin protectants that create a moisture barrier on the skin, leaving it soft to the touch and protecting against moisture loss. Put simply, cold cream is a combination of oil, wax, and water used to cleanse, moisturize, and heal the skin. In addition to makeup removal, daily use of cold cream has been shown to improve skin texture and appearance, helping the skin look softer and smoother.<\/p>\n

In phytotherapy, cold cream can also be used for different purposes by compounding specialized herbal mixtures. Some plants that can be incorporated into cold cream and their expected effects include the following:<\/p>\n

Aloe (Aloe vera) is a frequently used ingredient in commercial skincare products aimed at repairing damaged skin. The gel extracted from its leaves has been used for thousands of years. Dioscorides used the gel to treat wounds. Queen Cleopatra of Egypt was known to use it for cosmetic purposes. The gel reduces inflammation and itching while promoting wound healing. Topical aloe reduces the redness and scaling associated with psoriasis. In one study, aloe vera cream was shown to be slightly more effective than a topical steroid. Similar studies have reported its efficacy in seborrheic dermatitis and in soothing frostbite and burns.<\/p>\n

Calendula (Calendula officinalis), also known as pot marigold, is anti-inflammatory. Studies have shown that it destroys certain bacteria while promoting skin healing. Calendula creams have been shown to relieve skin inflammation. This plant can potentially cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals.<\/p>\n

Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) contains allantoin, a chemical substance that protects the skin and stimulates new skin cell growth. Purified allantoin is found in several commercial lotions. It is reported to aid in the repair of damaged skin tissue. Comfrey is recommended only for external use as it contains pyrrolizidine alkaloids, which are chemicals capable of causing liver damage in large amounts. These chemicals are found in higher concentrations in roots and young leaves, and are lowest in mature leaves. Both leaves and roots can be used to prepare ointments. Moistened leaves can be applied directly to the skin as a poultice.<\/p>\n

German chamomile (Matricaria recutita) is an anti-inflammatory herb that may benefit individuals with inflammatory skin conditions. A cream containing chamomile was shown to be slightly superior to a steroid cream in patients with eczema.<\/p>\n

Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) has gained popularity as an antimicrobial healing agent. It combats bacteria, viruses, and fungi, and is effective against head lice. It also possesses an antihistaminic effect. Furthermore, lavender essential oil is used to treat acne when applied topically to blemishes. Other phytochemicals\u2014particularly linalool, limonene, geraniol, and 1,8-cineole\u2014are responsible for its antibacterial, antifungal, and anti-inflammatory properties.<\/p>\n

The cooling effect of cold cream can be enhanced by adding 1% levomenthol, as described in the Pharmacopoea Helvetica. Cooling creams are highly valued for being exceptionally well tolerated since they contain no emulsifiers or preservatives. The minimal number of compounds in the formulation offers an advantage for individuals with sensitive skin. Specific indications for cold cream include acute to subacute dermatitis, pruritus in xerosis, or atopic dermatitis. The lipophilic cream is not suitable for seborrhea or acute inflammatory skin diseases. Because peanut oil is omitted in certain variations, it is suitable for allergic patients. In commercial products, it is often stabilized with various antioxidants to achieve a longer shelf life.<\/p>\n

Oxynex\u00ae 2004\u2014consisting of butylhydroxytoluene and citric acid monohydrate, glycerol monostearate 40\u201355, propylene glycol, and palmitoyl ascorbic acid synergists\u2014is commonly used. Substances added to extend the shelf life of commercial products may pose a risk of allergic reactions and shift the normal pH from 5\u20136 to a more acidic 3\u20133.5, presenting risks for sensitive patient groups; therefore, it is recommended that they be freshly prepared without these additives.<\/p>\n

We observe different cold cream formulations prepared abroad. In the book titled Secret Formulas (Gizli Tertipler), written in 1917 by the Ottoman pharmacist \u2018Avanzade Mehmet S\u00fcleyman\u2019, the cold cream recipe is given as follows:<\/p>\n

Cold Cream (Formula No. 277)<\/strong><\/p>\n

Cold-cream1<\/sup> (kul krem) is sold in our city at wigmakers (barbers), perfumeries, and similar large stores, as well as in small jars, and is known by everyone to be used for both toiletry and skin care. Since harmful substances (mev\u00e2dd-\u0131 muz\u0131rra) such as lard (\u015fahm-\u0131 h\u0131nz\u00eer) are often mixed into it, one must first procure the following ingredients to prepare a truly excellent cold cream:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Huil d\u2019amande douce1<\/sup> (sweet almond oil)      50 grams<\/strong><\/p>\n

Cire blanche3<\/sup> (white beeswax)                    10 grams<\/strong><\/p>\n

Blanc de baleine4<\/sup> (spermaceti)                       10 grams<\/strong><\/p>\n

These must be thoroughly melted in boiling water or over a gentle heat in a clean porcelain container. Afterwards, the following should also be added:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Eau de rose5<\/sup> (rose water)                              20 grams<\/strong><\/p>\n

Teint: de benjoin6<\/sup> (tincture of benzoin)         5 grams<\/strong><\/p>\n

Amber resin7<\/sup>                                                2 grams<\/strong><\/p>\n

It must be preserved inside a clean jar. It keeps for months and years without spoiling. It softens the dermis and imparts grace (beauty, pleasantness, softness, delicacy) to the skin. It heals cracks and scratches.<\/strong><\/p>\n

Hager’s 1938 manual provides a comprehensive and international overview of historical cold cream recipes. Table 1 presents a summary of creams that closely resemble contemporary variants.<\/p>\n

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When compared to modern cold cream formulas, certain notable differences can be observed. Instead of cetyl palmitate, which is widely used today, spermaceti obtained from sperm whales was used for consistency, and in our current DAB version, peanut oil was replaced by the more readily available almond oil. In the American version, antiseptic borax\u2014now permitted only in ophthalmic preparations\u2014was also added. Galenic formulators of the past also paid special attention to appearance and scent. For “whiter” (lighter-colored) creams, white beeswax was preferred over yellow beeswax, and the water phase was usually added in the form of rose water for a pleasant aroma. The literature even suggests the addition of soap, on one hand to bind water more tightly, but on the other to give the cream a whiter appearance.<\/p>\n

Comparing existing cold cream variants, it is noteworthy that some formulations have deviated from the original galenic concept of incorporating water purely mechanically. In Switzerland, the cream is stabilized by adding the O\/W emulsifier sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS). This creates two issues. On one hand, the cream is characterized in Pharmacopoea Helvetica 11-2012 as follows: “Soothing ointment is a W\/O emulsion ointment and contains 20 percent water.” On the other hand, if an O\/W emulsifier such as sodium dodecyl sulfate is added, the W\/O cream could theoretically become destabilized.<\/p>\n

Two different systems (W\/O and O\/W) cannot simply be combined; if sodium dodecyl sulfate is added to a cold cream formula, the result becomes a W\/O (pseudo-)emulsion.<\/p>\n

Other countries also incorporate emulsifiers (Table 2). The current American version uses the W\/O emulsifier glycerol monooleate, while the Dutch version uses the W\/O emulsifier glycerol monostearate. Strictly speaking, these creams are no longer true “cooling creams,” as a cooling effect will not occur through the breakdown of the emulsion system. Other variants completely omit cetyl palmitate, which is common in Germany and Belgium. Alternatively, hydrogenated peanut oil is included in Austrian and Swiss formulas.<\/p>\n

Table 2: Current Variants of Cold Cream Formulas<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"\"<\/p>\n

Active Ingredients Compatible with Cold Cream Formulations:<\/strong><\/p>\n

Allantoin, clobetasol, clotrimazole, dexamethasone, dexamethasone acetate, dexpanthenol up to 5%, dithranol, erythromycin, hydrocortisone, hydrocortisone acetate, nystatin, povidone-iodine, salicylic acid, sulfur, triamcinolone, zinc oxide.<\/p>\n

* Active ingredients that may cause issues in cold cream formulas without Oxynex\u00ae stabilization:<\/p>\n

Aluminum chloride, ammonium bituminosulfonate, lauromacrogol 400, urea, sodium chloride, coal tar solution, tannin, tetracaine hydrochloride, tetracycline hydrochloride.<\/p>\n

Active ingredients that exert a moisturizing effect on the skin, such as urea and sodium chloride, must also be incorporated into cold cream formulations with care. The prerequisite is that they should not be dissolved in water beforehand; instead, they should be added directly into the cold cream. Crystalline substances should be pulverized and, with a little patience, mixed and dissolved directly into the cream (leaving them overnight if necessary). With this production technique, the water content is not increased, and the delicate system remains stable.<\/p>\n

Formulations stabilized with Oxynex\u00ae 2004 exhibit an acidic pH between 3 and 3.5, and this plausibility must be taken into account during formulation review.<\/p>\n

As a general rule, when automated mixing systems such as Topitec\u00ae are used during the preparation of cold cream formulas, the speed must not exceed a maximum of 700 rpm.<\/p>\n

To preserve quality in formulas containing cold cream, ointment jars or aluminum tubes serve as ideal primary packaging. Due to its microbial susceptibility, the cream should be stored in the refrigerator, which also delays the degradation of the vegetable oils it contains.<\/p>\n

Refrigeration protects the product from light, heat, and water loss. Since the DAB explicitly permits the use of antioxidants, adding 0.2% tocopherol (d-\u03b1-tocopherol) to in-house compounding is rational. It protects the product and has no effect on the pH value. In DAB 2015, the shelf life is limited to three months if no antioxidant is added. According to our own experience, a shelf life of six months can be achieved by adding 0.2% tocopherol and compounding under vacuum.<\/p>\n

The nearly two-thousand-year history of cold creams and their sustained international use to this day continually reinforce the value of these simple formulas.<\/p>\n

I commemorate with gratitude Galen of Pergamon, who lived on these lands and is regarded as the father of pharmacy for personally preparing his own pharmaceutical compounds, and who bestowed cold cream\u2014an indispensable base in pharmacy and dermatology\u2014to the service of humanity and medical science. 01.11.2020<\/p>\n

References:<\/p>\n

    \n
  • 1-“Gizli Form\u00fcller” Avanzade Mehmet S\u00fcleyman (Ahmet Nezihi PEKCAN 2020)<\/li>\n
  • 2-Dr. rer. nat. Dominic Andreas Kram<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n

    (https:\/\/www.deutsche-apotheker-zeitung.de\/daz-az\/2016\/daz-6-2016\/kuehlende-creme)<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n

    Specialist Pharmacist Ahmet Nezihi PEKCAN<\/strong><\/p>\n

    Pekcan Pharmacy – Konya<\/p>\n

    pekcanecz@gmail.com<\/p>\n

     <\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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