Cosmesis”; in the Greek language, means “The Art of Beautification“. The role of cosmetics can generally be defined this way as well. However, today this definition is losing its adequacy; the concept of beauty varies from person to person, and thus we are faced with an incredible variety of cosmetic products.Dermocosmetics is a new term that has started to be used in the field of dermatology over the last 20 years. When medications used in the treatment of various skin problems are insufficient, there arose a need for skin, hair, and body care products—namely referred to as “dermocosmetic products”—formulated to be used in addition to medications or on their own to resolve both cosmetic and medical skin concerns, whose formulations, production, quality controls, and clinical trials are conducted as rigorously as pharmaceuticals and based on scientific rules. First produced in 1989 under the brand “MD formulations”, “dermocosmetics” group. Dermocosmetics, whose legal definition is still not clear in many countries including America and Europe, can generally be defined as “substances and products with biological activity or claimed to have biological activity, which achieve the desired cosmetic result through the physiological effect they display, and positively affect the structure and functions of formations such as skin, hair, and nails”.
Unlike cosmetics, dermocosmetics are absorbed by deeper layers of the skin and also act on deep layers. Therefore, they are used with the purpose of protecting the skin from potential problems and correcting already existing damage. Another difference from cosmetics is that they continue to maintain their efficacy for a long time after being applied to the skin.
In order to obtain the “Dermocosmetic” label, companies’ products undergo numerous laboratory tests just like pharmaceuticals, and their efficacy, side effects, toxicities (harmful effects), and stability are examined in detail. However, just as there are cosmetics on the market that try to give themselves such an appearance even though they are not dermocosmetics, there are also brands and products that are dermocosmetics but do not declare it. All of these are related to companies’ marketing and sales procedures and tactics. Some cosmetic products, on the other hand, although they are not dermocosmetics, may prefer to remain in the cosmetic class because obtaining the dermocosmetic definition requires a quite costly and lengthy process.Dermocosmetic products are not medicines. they are not substitutes for medication. However, for many cosmetic skin problems, they can serve as standalone solutions, as well as being used to reduce the adverse effects of pharmacotherapies, support drug treatments, or complement overall therapy. In certain aesthetic skin issues, they can also be sufficient on their own.
In many countries, the health insurance system reimburses certain dermocosmetic products. For instance, products for conditions such as psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis, acne, and atopic skin problems, along with certain essential sun protection products, are covered by insurance systems in various countries.
Dermocosmetic products contain various active ingredients. Therefore, just as there are beneficial effects, the possibility of adverse reactions from these active ingredients also exists.
Dear Colleagues;
Products that we refer to as DERMOCOSMETICS are taking an increasing place on the shelves of today’s pharmacies. We will now frequently see these products, whose names we often hear when it comes to skincare in recent years, also being utilized in MAGISTRAL FORMULATIONS..
In this article, we will examine the ingredients and properties of dermocosmetic products manufactured by various companies in Europe and in our country, and most importantly, the compatibility and maximum ratios we need to know when combining them with active pharmaceutical ingredients used in magistral formulas.NAMEAquabase
BiobaseLABORATORYAvene
Pierre Fabre
BiodermaEMULSION TYPEO/W
O/WINGREDIENTSEthoxylated cetostearyl alcohol, glycerin monostearate, liquid paraffin, distilled water
Stearic acid, cetyl alcohol, allantoin, beeswax, distilled water, sorbitan esters, glycosaminoglycans, avocado oil, wheat germ oil, liquid paraffin, proline, glycerol stearate, vitamins A, E,PROPERTIESoil-free cream, fluid, rapidly absorbed, good moisturizing effect, good skin tolerance.
Non-comedogenic cream, oil-free, washable, moisturizing, water-dispersible.COMPATIBILITY % MAXSalicylic acid 5%, erythromycin base 4%, CuSO45 %, benzoyl peroxide 10 %, etc.
Ascorbic acid 0.2 %, benzoic acid
4 %, boric acid 5 %, lactic acid 10 %, retinoic acid
0.1 %, salicylic acid
45 %, tartaric acid 3 %, acetazolamide 10 %, alcoholates
30 %, starch 30 %, etc.
NAMECérat
inaltérable
Cobase
Cold creamLABORATORYLa
Roche-Posay
Bioderma
Avene
Pierre FabreEMULSION TYPEW/O
O/W
W/OINGREDIENTSAluminum silicate 2 g, titanium oxide 2 g, white wax 23 g, liquid paraffin 73 g
Aqua, sodium laureth sulfate, lauryl glucoside, salicylic acid, sodium lauroyl OAT amino acids, sodium hydroxide, glycol stearate, dimethicone copolyol, hydrogenated talloweth-60 myristyl glycol, PEG-150 distearate, polysorbate 20,
C 12-15 alkyl lactate, acrylates/C 10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, PVP/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, polyquaternium-10,
C 12-15 alcohols
For dry and sensitive skin, oily excipient in the treatment of ichthyosisPROPERTIESOily ointment, suitable for dry skin, protective.
Auxiliary base for magistral formulations, cream base suitable for long-term treatments for dry scalp or other parts of the body.
Avène thermal spring water, spermaceti, beeswax, liquid paraffinCOMPATIBILITY % MAXCorticosteroid ointments, salicylic acid 1- 15 %, resorcinol 1- 10 %, coal tar 1- 30 %
Coal tar
unknown
Wishing you a good week…To be continued…
SourceCahiers du préparateur en pharmacie
Travaux pratiques de préparation et de conditionnement des médicaments
Jean-Marie FONTENEAU Philippe KLUSIEWICZ
Exp. Pharm. Ahmet Nezihi Pekcan
Pekcan Pharmacy – Konya
[email protected]
Tel: (332) 3520657http://www.majistralformul.com/
